Welcome to Battambang

Battambang is Cambodia’s rice bowl and its postcard pretty country side is filled with rice fields stretching as far as the eye can see as well as small fruit orchards. Rustic scenes of cattle-carts, ducks in canals, free-range pigs running around in villages surround a riverside town with well preserved French colonial style shops and villas. The provincial capital of Battambang sits on the west bank of the Sanker River and the boat trip from Siam Reap, which passes bird sanctuaries and wild estuaries, is spectacular.

Khmer Rouge Stronghold

Battambang became a Khmer Rouge stronghold and was the stage for many civil war fights in the 1980s and 1990s. Its long border with Thailand also had it being tossed back and forth between Thailand and Cambodia historically and it was under Thai rule for more than 100 years from 1795 and then again during World War II. Happily, the province is now enjoying better days. Battambang is the second largest town in Cambodia with an approximate population of 140,000 people.

The laid back town is relatively small, has a few attractions, and is an excellent base for day trips to the surrounding sights which include the killing caves of Phnom Sampoeu, exploring some 11th century Angkor ruins, visiting the more modern day wats or hitching a ride on the bamboo train or norry.

Town Attractions

In town, check out the Battambang Museum which has a small but excellent collection of statues, finely carved Angkorian lintels and artifacts from nearby Phnom Banan and Sneng. In the town center are the French colonia Govenor's Mansion and the towering golden kneeling figure of King Kron Nhong wielding his magic staff. Also worthy of note is the circus Phare Ponleu Selpak put together by an NGO

Killing Caves

On the limestone hill of Phnom Sampoeu or Sailing Boat Mountain lie are a complex of temples which are being rebuilt after having been destroyed by the Khmer Rouge. The big draw however are the killing caves half-way up to the temples. These are caves into which the Khmer Rouge threw bindfolded children and adults to their death, falling from an overhead skylight. In one of these is a rusty cage of bones, skulls and remnants of clothing as a reminder of the atrocities that were committed here. A newer glass walled memorial, also similarly filled, sits next to a golden reclining Buddha.

Angkorian Ek Phnom

Ek Phnom is an 11th century Angkorian-era grouping of sandstone sanctuaries with some carvings in pretty good condition. The temple was damaged by civil war fighting and a field gun remains on the grounds which includes a laterite wall and a baray. Many of the carvings from Phnom Banan, a mountain top ruin which has five towers similar to Angkor Wat’s, are in the Battambang Museum.

Circus for Kids

Phare Ponleu Selpak, is an NGO-assisted circus formed with the idea of helping kids recover from the trauma of war through creative activity such as juggling, tumbling, acrobatics and clowning. The circus has periodic shows and their new show, Puthou, will be on the road internationally, in Thailand and the European Union in 2009.

The Bamboo trains of Battambang

On old single tracks, the train, which consists of a frame made with bamboo slats that sits on two axles with wheels, can fit up to 10-15 people, vegetables, wood, fruit and livestock, even motor cycles. The trick is that when a car meets one coming in the opposite direction. The unspoken rule is that the car with fewer passengers will disassemble and laid out beside the tracks until the other car has passed. These trains are gasoline powered with the fuel sold in glass bottles at village stops. No trip to Battambang is complete without a ride on the bamboo train.