Bokor National Park, Kampot

Bokor National Park was established in the 1920s by the French as an elegant getaway, it is one of Cambodia’s premier protected areas spanning 4 provinces. A national park since 1993, it is heavily jungled and is home to elephants, rare birds and perhaps even tigers and is getting increasingly popular with tourists. It is on the southern tip of Elephant Mountains and has secluded waterfalls and is best known for the Bokor hill station.

At its heydey, the wind-swept hill station had a hotel-casino, church, and royal residence and offered a temperate climate and stunning views to well-heeled Khmers and French elite. It was abandoned twice, during World War II and the Khmer Rouge years, and was even the scene of fierce fighting between the Vietnamese and Khmer Rouge troops. What is left looks like a ghost town especially when the mists roll in.

Derelict Buildings

The hotel-casino, Bokor Palace, is a four-storey crumbling building, but it is possible to walk through its grim interiors to the rooftop terrace which commands a spectacular view of the jungles and the Gulf of Thailand.

The altar of the disused Catholic Church remains intact. The king’s old summer villa, the Black Palace, is covered with orange lichen, and some of its walls covered by graffiti. Going past the church is Wat Sampeau Moi Roi, or 5Boats Wat, which takes its name from the large boulders outside.

It is possible to stay overnight in Bokor in pretty basic US$5 accommodations and simple food. The nights get nippy here, so bring warm clothing. It is a 11/2 hour drive from Kompot.

Popokvil Falls

It is made up of two falls – a 14m lower falls, which are the best for swimming, and the upper 18m falls. It is 4.5km from the casino and requires transport to get there. It means “Swirling Clouds” in Khmer.

A forest ranger is available for a US$20 fee. Plans have been announced for a multi-million dollar redevelopment of the buildings on the hill station and a whole slew of new resort facilities.