The Bayon, Angkor Complex, Siem Reap

Buddhist ruler Jayavarman VII

Built by Angkor’s legendary king as a Buddhist temple on top of a previous Hindu site, it is made of three levels of narrow corridors, slippery, steep steps and 54 prang or towers. On each of these are carved 4 huge stone heads looking out unendingly at the compass points. Many think these giant faces, which exude power and control, represent Avalokiteshvara, the Buddha of Compassion, but others feel it depicts Jayavarman VII himself looking out at his far flung kingdom.

Three levels of discovery

The Bayon is nearly a perfect square. Check out the exquisite bas reliefs on the first level, depicting scenes of daily life among 12th century Khmers, and on the South wall, a three tiered panorama filled with scenes of war with the Chams. Soldiers march off on elephants and oxen, coffins are carried away from the battlefields, and stone crocodiles savage fallen warriors.

The second level reliefs are less epic, but it is on the third, circular level that the timeless magic of the Bayon kicks in.

A Mystery

It is here that you can get up close and personal to these carved faces. They seem to be everywhere as you walk around, at eye level, gazing down benevolently or staring out at infinity. The central prang has 16 tiny rooms for meditation by the king and high priests, and a giant statue of Jayavarman VII was found under this prang in 1933. The exact function of the Bayon remains unknown

A jungle elephant ride

A memorable way to view the magnificent temple is to ride on an elephant through the south gate which is itself crowned by four giant faces. On a leafy path with sunlight streaming in through age-old trees, feel like ancient Khmer royalty, and be amazed as The  Bayon slides into view, with some of the mysterious faces recognizable even from afar.